Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Bangkok, Wat Hopping (2008, Mar 14-17)

It's a Thailand revisit trip. Hadn't got the chance to explore Bangkok city at my first visit in 2007, I came back a year later and decided to spend more time in Bangkok city. Yeah, it'll be all about Bangkok city.

Traveling by sea from Batam to Singapore and fly to Bangkok on the same day was what I had in mind. A bit roundabout I know... but it was one of my trick to avoid paying extra IDR500,000 for travel tax. Indonesia imposes travel tax for Indonesian passport holders who travel overseas, IDR1,000,000 by air and IDR500,000 by sea/land. By 2011 the government will suspend the imposition of the travel tax to all travelers overseas, either those who travel by air, by sea or by land. Good news for me... no doubt about it :)

So here we go... Bangkok city.
No holiday to Bangkok is complete without wat hopping experience... and I had had my lists ready.
Day 1: Jim Thompson House and Museum, Wat Arun, Wat Pho, Chinatown (Yaowaraj Rd.).
Day 2: Wat Saket (Golden Mount), Wat Ratchanatdaram, Chatuchak Market, Erawan Shrine.
I had to drop Grand Palace from my list due to the huge crowd in the palace. Thai nation was in mourning period for the passing away of HRH Princess Galyani Vadhana (elder sister of HRH King Bhumibol Adulyadej) on Jan 2, 2008, so I decided to save Grand Palace for my next trip to Bangkok.
Day 3: no agenda listed... just enjoy the pool at the hotel and fly to Penang, my next destination.

Note: Beware of Bangkok Gem And Jewelry Scam!

Bangkok's infamous gem scam has ruined the holidays of many, many visitors to Thailand, include me. The con-artists hang around the main tourist attractions, such as Grand Palace, Wat Pho, the National Museum and Wat Arun. It usually starts with a male stranger approaching you on the way to or nearby any of main tourist attractions. After visiting Wat Arun and Wat Pho, I found that it was too late for me to visit Grand Palace. While I was standing at the sidewalk, one of the con artists approached me and said somewhere equally impressive is still open - "the famous 100m high Standing Buddha Temple". He offered to arrange a tuk-tuk ride for me to the new temple at a bargain price (THB20) explaining that tuk-tuks usually overcharge tourists, but he could get me cheaper price because he's a Thai. He claimed that by taking me there, the tuk-tuk driver would get free petrol vouchers, so that's why it was cheap. At the new temple (the so-called 'Standing Buddha Temple', 'Lucky Buddha Temple' etc - really just an average temple in an out-of-the-way location), the tuk-tuk driver waited outside while I went in. Luckily I didn't come across another con artist who would talk me into bulk buying gems at a low price in Thailand (Later I found out that the scam is no secret - there's warnings about it in every guidebook). I just spent a while at the temple since not much to be seen anyway and I asked the tuk-tuk driver to drive me to Chinatown. The tuk-tuk driver insisted he need to drive me to a fancy jewelry store nearby in order to collect his free petrol vouchers. OK, I'd let him take me to 1 more stop as it helped him and was no hassle to me, but afterward, he had to drive me to Chinatown. No more stopover! Eventually this guy didn't keep his promise and it got on my nerves just right. I shouted at him, got off his tuk-tuk, gave him THB50 and hailed a metered-taxi instead.

So guys, beware of Bangkok and Thailand's scam!!! Being polite and friendly doesn't always work in some parts of the world sadly.

Changi Airport
 Transit a few hours at Changi Airport before flying to Bangkok, EDT 15h35. 
Suanlum Nite Bazaar
Jim Thompson House & Museum
Jim Thompson is an American who was born in Greenville, Delaware in 1906. A practicing architect prior to World War II, he volunteered for service in the U.S. Army, campaigned in Europe, and came to Asia as part of the force that hoped to help restore Thailand's full freedom and independence. However, the war ended before he saw action. He arrived in Bangkok a short time later as a military intelligence officer attached to the OSS (Office of Strategic Service). After leaving the service, he decided to return and stay in Thailand permanently.

The hand weaving of silk, a long-neglected cottage industry, captured Jim Thompson's attention, and he devoted himself to reviving the craft. Highly gifted as a designer and textile colorist, he contributed substantially to the industry's growth and to the worldwide recognition accorded to Thai silk.

He gained further renown through the construction of this house combining 6 teak buildings which represented the best in traditional Thai architecture. Most of the houses were, at least two centuries old and were easily dismantled and brought to the present site, some from as far away as the old capital of Ayutthaya.

In his quest for authenticity, Jim Thompson adhered to the customs of the early builders in most respects. The houses were elevated a full story above the ground, a practical Thai precaution to avoid flooding during the rainy season, and the roof tiles were fired in Ayuttahya employing a design common centuries ago but rarely used today. The red paint on the outside walls is a preservative often found on many old Thai buildings. The chandeliers were a concession to modern convenience, but even they belong to a past era, having come from 18th and 19th century Bangkok palaces.

All the traditional religious rituals were followed during construction of the house, and on a spring day in 1959, a chosen day as being auspicious by astrologers, Jim Thompson moved in. The house and the art collection soon became such a point of interest that he decided to open his home to the public with proceeds donated to Thai charities and to projects directed at the preservation of Thailand's rich cultural heritage.

On March 26th, 1967, Jim Thompson disappeared while on a visit to the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. Not a single clue has turned up in the ensuing years as to what might have happened to him. His famous Thai house however, remains as a lasting reminder of his creative ability and his deep love of Thailand.

Jim Thompson House and Museum
6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Rd, Wangmai, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330
Tel: (662) 216-7368
Fax: (662) 612-3744
Open everyday 09.00-17.00 with the last Guided Tour at 17:00 (compulsory guided tours around the house).
Admission Fee: THB100
www.jimthompsonhouse.com
 The James H.W. Thompson Foundation

In 1976, the Thai Court-appointed administrator for the property of Jim Thompson received permission from government ministries of the Kingdom of Thailand to legally establish the James H.W. Thompson Foundation.

By virtue of its presence and the dictates of its charter, the Foundation is committed to the preservation of Thailand's rich artistic and cultural heritage. The Foundation supports a wide variety of research, publication and seminar projects in furtherance of this aim. 
Located in the heart of Bangkok, The Jim Thompson Art Center is situated in the same compound as the unique and famous Jim Thompson House and Museum. Serving as a haven for Bangkok’s local and international arts and cultural communities, the Center’s reputation as a place to mingle, interact and exchange dialogues is rapidly spreading. In conjunction with its exhibitions, the Center’s activities include parties, events, seminars, lectures and workshops.

The Jim Thompson Art Center is operated under The James H.W. Thompson Foundation. The mission of the Art Center is to nurture artistic activities and create public awareness of both contemporary and traditional arts within today’s context. Among its many activities, the Art Center organizes exhibitions; conducts educational and outreach programs; produces publications; and networks and collaborates with local and international cultural institutions.

Opening Hours:
09.00-17.00 everyday with the last guided Tour at 16.30 (compulsory guided tours around the house).
www.thejimthompsonartcenter.org


Crossing the Chao Phrya River (River of Kings) on my way to Wat Arun. You can view the wat from across the river. The riverbank landmark is opposite Wat Po and diagonally opposite the Grand Palace.
http://www.at-bangkok.com/wat_po.php


9 Temples



Wat Arun, better known as the Temple of Dawn, consists of a massive elongated prang (Khmer-style tower), and is surrounded by four smaller prangs. It is decorated by bits of porcelain which had previously been used as ballast by boats coming to Bangkok from China, a hallmark of the reign of King Rama III.

Despite it's name (coming from Aruna, the Indian god of the dawn), the best views and photos of Wat Arun are in the evening with the sun setting behind it. Due to it's location, by far the best and most common way to get to Wat Arun is on the river. The Tha Tien express boat pier, at the southwest corner of the Grand Palace / Wat Phra Kaew, is opposite Wat Arun and boats leave every few minutes. You can get to Tha Tien on the Chao Phraya River Express boats from any other pier, or take a taxi to it. Buses that go near Tha Tien are ordinary buses 1, 25, 44, 47, 62 and 91 which stop on Maharat road.

It is open every day from 08.30-17.30. Officially, entrance to the wat is THB20 and the ferry crossing is THB2.

For more pics on Wat Pho & Wat Arun, pls refer to album Revisit: Wat Pho, Wat Arun (2009, Aug 2)

It is possible to walk a limited way up the (very steep) stairs of the main prang, which gives a reasonable view of the Chao Phrya River.

Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha
Wat Pho holds the dual honors of having both Thailand's largest reclining Buddha image and the most number of Buddha images in Thailand. The large grounds of Wat Pho contain more than 1,000 Buddha images in total, most from the ruins of the former capitals Ayutthaya and Sukhothai.

Wat Pho is famous for the huge reclining Buddha statue it houses. The highly impressive gold plated reclining Buddha is 46 meters long and 15 meters high, and is designed to illustrate the passing of the Buddha into nirvana. The feet and the eyes are engraved with mother-of-pearl decoration, and the feet also show the 108 auspicious characteristics of the true Buddha.

Wat Pho is also famous as Thailand's first university, and is center for traditional Thai massage. If you want to experience traditional Thai massage, this is probably the best place available and is highly recommended.

The entrance fee to Wat Pho is THB20. It's open every day, opening hours are from 08.00-17.00, with break time from 12.00-13.00. It's just a short river crossing away from Wat Arun and within walking distance to Grand Palace / Wat Phra Kaew.


The Reclining Buddha's mother-of-pearl feet. The feet also display 108 auspicious scenes in Chinese and Indian style.
Reclining Buddha
 
Buddha's Back

Wat Pho, The Alley

Sunset at Wat Pho
At 20 acres large, Wat Pho is the largest wat in Bangkok, and is technically the oldest too, as it was built around 200 years before Bangkok became Thailand's capital.

The Wat Pho complex consists of two walled compounds bisected by Soi Chetuphon running east–west. The northern walled compound is where the Reclining Buddha and massage school are found. The southern walled compound is a working Buddhist monastery with monks in residence and a school.
Bangkok, Bus Stop
Standing Buddha Temple

 Pic of me smiling before the 100m high Standing Buddha (Phrasiariyametri "Luang Pho To")... a few hours before I came to my senses that I had been swindled by those con-artists.

Phrasiariyametri "Luang Pho To" is a gigantic Buddha statue standing at Wat Intharavihan, Bangkhunphrom Sub District, Phra Nakhon District, Bangkok.

 Wat Intharavihan was built by the end of Ayutthaya period. It was firstly called Wat Rai Phrik as it was located among Chinese vegetable garden.

In the reign of King Rama I, he moved his army to suppress the rebellion in Vientiane and led the Royal Family of Laos to settle down at Bangkhunphrom (then was called Banlaos). Chao Inthawong who came with this mission was a faithful Buddhist. He restored Wat Rai Phrik and named it Wat Intharam. Afterward it changed again to Wat Intharavihan in the reign of Rama VI up to present time.

In 1867 AD, at the reign of King Rama IV, the 80 years old Somdej Phra Buddhachan (To Phromarangsi of Wat Rakhang Kositharam) carried out the construction of Luang Pho To statue. All abutment of the statue was built by crossing the logs alternating with structural steel, but unfortunately, Somdej Phra Buddhachan passed away at midnight of Saturday, 22 July 1872 AD at the hall for sermons in Wat Intharavihan, as the construction was only up to the navel.

Later on his favorite follower, Luang Pho Phu Chanthakesaro (Phra Khru Thamanukun) took over the 60 years left over construction and the construction was completed in the time of Luang Pho Ngoen (Phra Intharasamachan) at the reign of King Rama VII (1927 AD).

Luang Pho To is the most gigantic standing Buddha with alms-bowl in hands, facing east, 32 meters in height and 11 meters in width. The posture of Luang Pho To means that Somdej To could stand here during his childhood years.

In 1964 AD and 1967 AD, His Majesty The King and Her Majesty The Queen along with their sons and daughters went to cover the statue of Buddha at his topknot and forehead with gold leaves. In 1978 AD, HRH The Crown Prince Vachiralongkorn on behalf of His Majesty The King went to place the Buddha relics which was presented to Thai government by Ceyloness Government, in the topknot of Luang Pho To.

In 1982 AD, Phra Khru Woraphattikhun, the late abbot, carried out the restoration of Luang Pho To by decorating with 24K golden mosaics from Italy, for the Rattanakosin Bicentennial celebration. The annual celebration will be organized during March 1-10.

Luang Pho To will bless success and miraculous power upon whomever that vow will present a head of mackerel kind of fish, a boiled egg and a lei of flowers.


 A well-known landmark, the towering gold chedi of Wat Saket (sometimes spelled Wat Srakes) was once the highest point in Bangkok. It is notable for its spectacular views and its hosting of the annual Loy Kratong festival.

Wat Saket itself (the temple complex at the bottom of the hill) dates back to the Ayutthaya era, when it was called Wat Sakae. The wat was restored under Rama I (1782-1809).

Wat Saket was used for cremation ceremonies, which were not permitted inside the walled city. During a plague in the reign of King Rama II (1809-24), 30,000 bodies were brought here

Wat Saket's major feature is The Golden Mount, which is an artificial hill made out of mud and brick constructed under King Rama III (1787–1851). When the king tried to build a chedi here before the hill existed, it collapsed because of the soft soil beneath. He therefore made a strong pile of mud and bricks to support it. The resulting mud-and-brick hillock was left alone for about half a century, taking the shape of a natural hill and becoming overgrown with weeds. Since then it looked like a natural small mountain. It was under King Rama IV, a small Chedi was built on the hilltop. He also shored up the hill with 1,000 teak logs because it was already sinking into the swampy ground. Later on King Rama V added more structure to complete the Golden Mount, enshrining within it a relic of the Buddha. And of course during that time until now minor renovation and constructions took place.

Admission is free except for the final approach to the top Chedi, which cost THB10.
Location: Between Boriphat Road and Lan Luang Road, Old City (Rattanakosin)
Open daily from 08.00-17.00.
Tel. 662 621 0576, 662 233 4561

 Bells at the rest platform
Visit the temple and climb the 318 steps to the top Chedi. The route to the top is up a long flight of tree-lined steps with platforms along the way for rest areas. 

Wat Saket
Wat Ratchanatdaram
The memorial statue of King Rama III
.
Across Mahachai Road from Golden Mount (Wat Saket) is Wat Ratchanatdaram. The name of the temple means "Royal Niece". This royal temple was built in the reign of King Rama III in 1846. He built the edifice to commemorate his niece, H.R.H. Princess Somanas Wathanavadi, who later became Her Majesty the Queen Somanas Wathanavadi of King Rama IV. Even though it was built during the rule of Rama III, extensive renovation occurred during the regimes of Rama V and Rama VI.

The highlight of the edifice is 'Loha Prasat', also known as Metal Castle which asserts its value as 'one of its kind' in Thailand. It has 37 spires, each representing the 37 Bodhipak Khiyadhamma - the different virtues leading to enlightenment. A winding staircase, similar to European staircases, with wooden posts stands at the centre and leads to the Mondop in the top floor. However, the significance of this Loha Prasat rests on the fact that it was the 'first of its kinds' in Thailand. Situated in the nearby area are a royal pavilion for a guest welcome and the memorial statue of King Rama III.

Wat Ratchanatdaram is located on Mahachai Road, at the coner of Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, near Golden Mount (Wat Saket)
Open daily from 09.00-17.00. Admission is free.
Tel. 662 224-9807, 662 225-5749
Wat Ratchanatdaram




Finally I made it to the Mondop at the top floor after climbing numerous winding staircases.
Wat Ratchanatdaram
Erawan Shrine
The Erawan Shrine (San Phra Phrom/Four-Faced Buddha/四面佛) is a Hindu shrine in Bangkok that houses a statue of Phra Phrom, the Thai representation of the Hindu creation god Brahma. A popular tourist attraction, it often features performances by resident Thai dance troupes, who are hired by worshippers in return for seeing their prayers at the shrine answered.

Every day thousands of devotees both Thai and foreigners pray at the shrine to seek blessings, fulfillment of dreams, success in personal lives and careers.

Opening hours: 06.00-24.00
Location: Front yard of Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, corner of Ploenchit and Ratchadamri Road. It is near the Bangkok Skytrain's Chitlom Station, which has an elevated walkway overlooking the shrine. The area has many shopping malls nearby, including Gaysorn, Central World and Amarin Plaza.

Suvarnabhumi Airport

Airport Waiting Room

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